*** IMPORTANT: NO RETURNS, REFUNDS, OR EXCHANGES. BEFORE PURCHASING AN ADAPTER PLATE, MAKE SURE TO CONFIRM THAT IT FITS YOUR VEHICLE BY USING THE DIMENSIONAL DRAWINGS PROVIDED ***
- Suzuki G & F series 1.0L - 2.0L (Geo Metro)
- 1.0 L Suzuki I3
- 1.0 L Suzuki Turbo I3
- 1.3 L Suzuki I4
- 1.3 L Suzuki I4 16v
- 1.6 L Suzuki I4
- Suzuki Cultus Esteem
- Suzuki Swift
- Geo Metro
- Pontiac Firefly
- Maruti Suzuki 1000/Esteem
- Holden Barina
- Chevrolet Swift (Colombia)
- Chevrolet Sprint (Canada)
- Subaru Justy (Europe) 1994 - 2003
- Suzuki Cultus (Pakistan)
- Suzuki Amenity (Indonesien, Hatchback)
- Suzuki Esteem (Indonesia; Sedan)
- Maruti Esteem (India; Sedan)
- Chang'an SC7130 Gazelle
- Suzuki Escudo
- Suzuki Sidekick
- Suzuki Samurai
- Suzuki Vitara
- Suzuki Jimny
- Suzuki X-90
- Chevrolet Tracker (1998 & 1989–1991 Canada)
- GMC Tracker
- Asüna/Pontiac Sunrunner
- Chevrolet Vitara
All adapters retain use of original clutch and fit WARP, HPEV AC31/AC50/AC75 and ADC Motors.
Taper lock Verses set screw hubs info:
Over the years there have been two ways of holding the adapter hub to the motor shaft and it causes great debates. The taper lock hub uses three or more bolts to pull the hub onto a tapered locking sleeve. This works well if the bolts are done up gradually and evenly and the sleeve does not move on the shaft while your pulling the two parts together. The biggest problem is pulling them on straight. If they are pulled a bit crooked then you end up with a flywheel wobble and vibration. There is also a chance that while pulling the two parts together the inner sleeve will move on the shaft which moves the position of the flywheel and the clutch will not work properly. CEV has used the taper lock hub on its S-10 and air cooled VW adapters for a long time but due to occasional wobble problems we switch to set screw hubs on all adapters with no more problems. Our set screw hubs slide all the way onto the shaft and bottom on the motor front bearing. This eliminates any chance that the hub could move in the future. All the clutch force is transmitted directly to the bearing rather than through the set screw. Some The setscrew hubs (not ours) were installed on the motor shaft to the correct distance from the adapter face ( the magic number). Then a small hole drilled in the motor shaft and a set screw done up to keep it in the right place. Over time this could wear and the set screw could come loose from repeated use of the clutch.
Reasons for clutch-type adapters:
1. Safety disconnect. If the motor were to lock up you can disconnect it from the rear axle and avoid locking up the rear wheels.
2. If the controller were to fail full ON (and they do) you can disconnect the motor so your not rocketing through a stop sign.
3. Have your tried to shift without a clutch? Yes you can get on to it but we like to build vehicles that anyone can jump into a drive without having to learn the "tricks" of shifting without the clutch.
4. We have built vehicles with both systems and find no noticeable difference that the extra flywheel weight makes. Yes there is a theoretical difference but I have never been able to tell by driving both systems in the same vehicle.
5. Most clutchless adapters are the same cost as our clutch adapters so no savings on cost.
6.There is no modification to the clutch to work with our adapters. We make the drive end of the motor "look" like the back end of the gas engine so the flywheel bolts on just like stock.
Some adapter plates may have more or less bolt holes than your make and model of vehicle requires. As some adapters span a broad range of model years the adapter is designed to have enough bolt holes to be compatible with all model designs.
|Country of Manufacture||Canada|